A mid-winter family escape to beautiful Rarotonga

Kahu de Beer and family take a deep dive into island life in stunning Rarotonga.

Words: Kahu de Beer

Is there anything better than escaping to a tropical island in the middle of winter? The endless cold, rainy days back home make that first moment you walk off the plane into the humid air so much sweeter. Rarotonga was somewhere I’d always dreamed of visiting, and it did not disappoint! For an overseas family holiday it’s also about the easiest, most stress-free place you could choose. The flight is short, there’s no language barrier, the beaches are child-friendly, and most of all the culture is beautiful and welcoming. I can see why it’s a top destination for families.

After making the drive from the Mount to the airport in Auckland we boarded our Jetstar flight to Rarotonga, which with a tail wind was just a quick 3.5 hours. We were welcomed onto the Island with live Rarotongan music at the airport terminal, and the fragrant perfume of frangipani. It felt like time was already slowing down and our cares becoming a distant memory. We were met at the arrivals gate by a representative from Cook Islands Tourism who we’d organised much of our trip through. She had her arms full of gorgeous 'ei – the most intricately detailed frangipani garlands – for us, and we truly felt the warmth and welcoming spirit of the Cook Islands culture. After picking up our rental car from Polynesian Rentals we headed to The Edgewater Resort and Spa, which was to be our base for our time on Raro. Arriving at night meant we had three extremely excited kids awake before dawn the next morning to explore the resort and make the very most of the buffet breakfast (hello, Coco Pops and chocolate muffins!). For our family of five we had two interconnecting Lagoon View Rooms that looked directly out over the pool and ocean which was such a dreamy spot.

On our first full day in Rarotonga we spent a lazy morning at the resort, taking in the breathtaking beauty all around us. I enjoyed the ultimate luxury of reading my book, alone, on a sun lounger while the girls happily played in the pool, making friends with other children who were staying at the resort. I’m always amazed at the ease at which children do this. We also discovered on our first day that seeing whales out front of the resort, cruising past beyond the reef, was just a regular thing. We saw them each day we were there and it was magical every time.

That evening we had a cultural night booked in at Te Vara Nui Village where the island’s traditions were showcased in an exciting overwater performance of Polynesian dance, music, and fire twirling. The girls, enthralled by the rhythmic beats and colourful costumes, couldn't resist joining in a dance at the end of the show when they came over to our tables (all captured on video by paparazzi mum, of course). The Te Vara Nui experience offered a glimpse into the island's vibrant heritage as it told the story of their people and history.

Being nature lovers, our whole family was really looking forward to our next adventure – a Turtle Sea Scooter Safari with Ariki Adventures the following day. Equipped with snorkeling gear and some very high-tech sea scooters (essentially a powered steering wheel for the water), we ventured into the clear waters. I wasn’t sure how the girls would go, having not had much experience snorkelling, let alone sea scootering, but they took to it like ducklings to the water. Following our guides, we headed out into the lagoon and then the deeper waters of Avaavaroa Passage where we got to experience swimming alongside the most stunning, graceful sea turtles in their own habitat, we even got to see one of the critically endangered hawksbill turtles. I could hear little squeals of excitement through the girls’ snorkels as the turtles came right up to us. On our way back in from the lagoon the sun was setting and we could see the silhouette of the dramatic, mountainous island against a glowing, golden background – a moment I will always remember.

The next morning we headed to the local markets in town which were a full immersion into the culture with stalls set up by local craftspeople, music and dance performances, and typical Rarotongan food on offer. With the weather being overcast and drizzly and while we were feeling adventurous we decided to attempt the Needle Rock summit; a word of wisdom from a failed experience – don’t do this in bad weather. It was a pretty treacherous path made even more tricky in the wet, and very steep in parts. We also didn’t get the view as there was cloud cover, we did however get some good grazes, a twisted ankle and a lot of mud all over us. It was a memorable experience but not one I’d do again!

Muri Beach was one of our must-see places on the island and somewhere we were yet to explore. So off we went the next morning to do the Koka Lagoon Cruise. Aboard a traditional double-hulled canoe, we set sail across the turquoise lagoon, guided by our friendly and hilarious crew who provided the best entertainment and made everyone feel relaxed. Our first stop was the marine reserve, where we experienced our best snorkelling on the island. It truly was another world under the sea with so many varieties of fish we lost count. The cruise continued to Motu Koromiri, a pristine islet where we enjoyed a traditional island feast prepared by the crew. This was followed by an entertaining performance of coconut tree climbing, coconut husking, singing and coconut cream making which the kids all got involved in. We also had time to just chill on the beach and soak up the island sun, which is what tropical holidays are all about, right?

As our time in Rarotonga was drawing to a close, we decided to spend our final day back at our favourite spot – Muri Beach. We packed a picnic lunch and spent the day swimming, exploring the lagoon and lying on the beach.

The last thing we wanted to tick off our list was a stop at the famous Wigmores for some of the biggest real fruit ice creams you’ll ever try… while in Raro right? We absolutely loved every minute of our time on this special island that we’d been so fortunate to experience. We didn’t want it to end, but the memories will last us, until next time.

SHOUT-OUT TO:

Cook Islands Tourism cookislands.travel

Polynesian Rentals polynesianhire.co.ck

The Edgewater Resort and Spa edgewater.co.ck

Te Vara Nui Village tevaranui.co.ck

Ariki Adventures arikiadventures.rezdy.com

Koka Lagoon Cruise kokalagooncruises.com

Jetstar jetstar.com